Looking for a “Production” gun to compliment my “Single Stack” gun.

[want2race]

I'd like a 40L, 5". I can load .40 minor but I'm not set up for 9mm. If I'd been shooting .40, I'd have hit a 100% on the classifier. Missed it by the width of the bullet. Steel shook when I grazed it, but was resistant to falling.

[twodelta]

I'm just setup for 9mm and .45, but dies aren't that much.

The steel gave me fits on one stage yesterday too. I'm just a middle C shooter in single stack. I checked my score on the classifier, and I was right at 59% in production. That's my highest score on a classifier so far.

[451-Detonics]

I haven't shot a great deal of IDPA but when I have I have done very well using my H&K P7M8, very accurate, great trigger, and very reliable, I shot the last two stages of one match with the extractor missing...lol.

[ken_mays]

If you're a 1911 guy, the M&P is the least invasive of the plastic guns that I've tried (XD, Glock).

Last time I shot the IDPA classifier with my M&P 9 in SSP I came within a second of using my ESP gun. FWIW, I decided against the thumb safety because it's not really wide enough to rest my thumb on like I do with the 1911, so it just gets in my way and is mushier than I'd like.

[ondutyhk]

p7

[47D]

Originally Posted by 451-Detonics

I shot the last two stages of one match with the extractor missing...lol.

Extractor? We don't need no stinking extractor!


(Can't say that about too many other guns)

[1911FiX]

Does anyone know which trigger, between the SW M&P or the Springer XD, is easier to work on (or get parts, etc.) to get a decent trigger pull?

Thanks!

[ken_mays]

Originally Posted by 1911FiX

Does anyone know which trigger, between the SW M&P or the Springer XD, is easier to work on (or get parts, etc.) to get a decent trigger pull?

Thanks!

M&P. You can buy a replacement sear from Apex Tactical, or the S&W Performance Shop.

Or you could perform the DIY trigger job that Dan Burwell was gracious enough to write up.

[want2race]

XD = ESP should you want to shoot IDPA

M&P = SSP (and ESP).

I just did some tinkering on my borrowed M&P. An honest, trigger pull gauge checked, 2# trigger pull with less pretravel than my 1911. Steel1212 will get a chance to confirm this tomorrow. I like this gun.

Cost me $25 for the spring kit (only used the trigger and striker springs) and $40 for the sear, which I ended up NOT using since my sear work turned out to be better. The Apex sear is good for a drop in, but still needs work to get some grittyness out of it.

[waktasz]

How did you get that much pretravel out?! Between the trigger hinge and the firing ping block I thought they all had to have a bit of pretravel.

It doesn't really bother me because there is no weight to it, but it would be nice if it was gone.

[Gary1911A1]

The hinge trigger of the M&P and Sigma really bothers me. When I get to the end of the first hinge I feel like the pistol should be firing, but no, there's a second hinge to travel through to fire. I realize it's a matter of training, but CZs' work better for me.

[want2race]

Delrin block attached to the front of the trigger that hits the inside of the frame, limiting it's forward travel. I filed the trigger safety block so that it still hinges and blocks the trigger movement at the reduced travel. I did a similar mod to my G35 when I used to own one. Adjusting the trigger block safety that is.

To give you an idea of how much pretravel has been reduced, when I rack the slide with the trigger pulled, then release until sear resets the trigger moves foward just a little more then stops. Maybe .050". Just enough to reliably reset the sear. The FBS is not engaged until the trigger bar just starts to cam the sear so that safety is still in place too.

It sounds shadetree, but you can't see it. I did it just to see if I like it. I can easily file the block off the trigger and return it to normal. I'll shoot it as is, then adjust for more pretravel if needed. It's like adjusting overtravel on an EGW 1911 trigger, but in reverse.

[Steel1212]

Originally Posted by want2race

XD = ESP should you want to shoot IDPA

M&P = SSP (and ESP).

I just did some tinkering on my borrowed M&P. An honest, trigger pull gauge checked, 2# trigger pull with less pretravel than my 1911. Steel1212 will get a chance to confirm this tomorrow. I like this gun.

Cost me $25 for the spring kit (only used the trigger and striker springs) and $40 for the sear, which I ended up NOT using since my sear work turned out to be better. The Apex sear is good for a drop in, but still needs work to get some grittyness out of it.

Must....not....buy....plastic....

[waktasz]

Originally Posted by want2race

Delrin block attached to the front of the trigger that hits the inside of the frame, limiting it's forward travel. I filed the trigger safety block so that it still hinges and blocks the trigger movement at the reduced travel. I did a similar mod to my G35 when I used to own one. Adjusting the trigger block safety that is.

To give you an idea of how much pretravel has been reduced, when I rack the slide with the trigger pulled, then release until sear resets the trigger moves foward just a little more then stops. Maybe .050". Just enough to reliably reset the sear. The FBS is not engaged until the trigger bar just starts to cam the sear so that safety is still in place too.

It sounds shadetree, but you can't see it. I did it just to see if I like it. I can easily file the block off the trigger and return it to normal. I'll shoot it as is, then adjust for more pretravel if needed. It's like adjusting overtravel on an EGW 1911 trigger, but in reverse.

External mods not legal in Production or SSp

[want2race]

Originally Posted by waktasz

External mods not legal in Production or SSp

External mods, exactly. This is internal. Internal mods allowed, such as action work and trigger work. The block is a wedge between the INSIDE of the frame and the trigger.

I just looked two new M&P's. BOTH had steel guide rods. Looks like the Steelie that's in my borrowed Pro is good to go.

[waktasz]

ooooh. I guess I misread what you said. I thought you had some sort of external block behind the trigger and filed trigger safety. I'd love to see a picture or two of that setup because I'm still not really picturing what you managed to do.

I think all the M&Ps come with steel guiderods. The Pro comes with a captured steel rod for sure. I replaced it so I could swap out springs more easily.