http://forums.1911forum.com/ Talk about custom parts, gunsmithing, maintenance, and troubleshooting for the 1911.Dedicated to the late Brian Bilby, who devoted so much time and knowledge to this forum. Thanks Brian. en Thu, 09 Sep 2010 09:23:51 GMT vBulletin 60 http://forum.1911forum.com/images/misc/rss.jpg http://forums.1911forum.com/ http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284751&goto=newpost Thu, 09 Sep 2010 04:29:04 GMT Is it possable to refinish a gun that is blued to a Parkerized finish? Can this be a do it yourself project or does it need to be done my a professional? I have a blued steel 1911 clone and its a bit rough. I want to get it refinished to a parkerised finish. Thanks! Is it possable to refinish a gun that is blued to a Parkerized finish? Can this be a do it yourself project or does it need to be done my a professional? I have a blued steel 1911 clone and its a bit rough. I want to get it refinished to a parkerised finish. Thanks! ]]> GSchkade2 http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284751 http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284748&goto=newpost Thu, 09 Sep 2010 04:12:49 GMT The easyest way to measure a barrel link accuratley? The easyest way to measure a barrel link accuratley? ]]> jim42 http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284748 http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284747&goto=newpost Thu, 09 Sep 2010 03:55:40 GMT Hello every one First time posting here. I would like first to say thanks for all the interesting stuff I read in all the threads. I have a RIA that I wanted to put tritium sights on. It had sights on it similar to Novak style. It was shooting a little low. My gunsmith whom I... Hello every one

First time posting here. I would like first to say thanks for all the interesting stuff I read in all the threads.

I have a RIA that I wanted to put tritium sights on. It had sights on it similar to Novak style. It was shooting a little low.
My gunsmith whom I trusted for many years is no longer working. The first new place I went to would not tell me the name of the Smith or let me talk to him. They also told me that to get the gun to shoot higher without filling on the sight, they would have to change the slide. I left. The second place seemed alright. They would simply order the correct size sight. I took the gun in and was promptly talked into the Kensight fully adjustable tritium rear sight in order to sight in. It was not hard to talk me into it because I was going to put a tritium rear anyway.
I got the gun back and the rear sight was considerably taller than the original with no compensation to the height of the front. The front dovetail is cut to 0.082 and the base of the sight is 0.070, so there is a gap between the sight and slide. The sight was not pinned so it slides side to side.
The good news is it no longer shoots slightly low. It now shoots 12" high at 25 yards with the sight bottomed out.
The third smith said he would change the front sight and asked me how tall of a sight to put on after explaining it was 12" high ect. I told him my calculations came to 0.266, but I wanted him to check my math, which meant I would probably need the 0.280 sight. This should give me about 4 clicks up on the sight. He wrote down 0.266 took a deposit and expected me to leave. I volunteered that the sight radius was 6.5". He responded that a 1911 is a 1911. I volunteered once again that it was 12" high at 25 yards because he had not written it down. He still did not. I volunteered that the existing sight was 0.180 high. Still no writing. I don't have a lot of confidence.

I think I need to fix the problem myself. I am going to order the 0.280 sight which only comes on a flat base. I will need to file it to the contour of the gun and then blacken it. I will pin the sight to keep it from drifting but the gap between the sight and slide is just a water trap.

How do I blacken it where I shaped it?
Any suggestions on how to handle the gap aside from welding and recutting.

Sorry I kind of ranted and thanks for any input

Richard Reinhardt ]]> Vaportrail http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284747 http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284734&goto=newpost Thu, 09 Sep 2010 02:38:00 GMT I bought some "Braze 452" flux coated silver solder rods, made by Sil-Fos, from a local welding supply company. The flux coating is a bright orange in color. I have a project 1911 frame that has numerous pits.

These Braze 452 rods have been awesome for filling in these pits in carbon steel. The silver solder is much harder than I anticipated, which is good. The only way to really work it is with a file.

Just wanted to pass this along and see if anyone else has ever used this particular rod for soldering on pistol projects. Doing a search, I found Sil-Fos flux in a jar with seperate silver solder, but not these flux coated rods. ]]> schmeky http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284734 http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284699&goto=newpost Wed, 08 Sep 2010 21:42:10 GMT I installed a C&S trigger kit in my S&W 1911. Everything looks & works fine and gun passed all the safety checks in the C&S instructions. My Ed Brown thumb safety clicks on & off with a nice positive feel. Grip safety works fine as designed.
I accidently clicked the thumb safety on while hammer was in the half cock position. It went in to position and locks the hammmer. It also goes in to position and locks the hammer at the full cock position. I have always assumed that a thumb safety will only engage the hammer while in the full cock position. Is is it normal to also engage in the half cock position? ]]> Oldspeed http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284699 http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284685&goto=newpost Wed, 08 Sep 2010 19:09:58 GMT I know that we always talk about these two subjects when dealing with triggers.......But is there a technical definition for each of them? :scratch: I know that we always talk about these two subjects when dealing with triggers.......But is there a technical definition for each of them?

:scratch: ]]> Imbel45 http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284685 http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284680&goto=newpost Wed, 08 Sep 2010 18:18:51 GMT what is the problem

I changed the trigger and when i am shooting the hammer doesn't stay at rear for the second shot( it follows the slide)

i did not fit the trigger to the gun, but want to know how ]]> frward http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284680 http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284679&goto=newpost Wed, 08 Sep 2010 18:15:53 GMT i recently purchased my first 1911. i bought a Springfield Armory 1911-A1 Champion SS PX9142LP. i have taken it apart a few times for cleaning and learning how it works. i have a problem now though. i was taking it apart and i took the main pin out of the side and now the pistol is stuck with the... i recently purchased my first 1911. i bought a Springfield Armory 1911-A1 Champion SS PX9142LP. i have taken it apart a few times for cleaning and learning how it works. i have a problem now though. i was taking it apart and i took the main pin out of the side and now the pistol is stuck with the slide back and no pin in the side. i cannot get it to come free so i can get it apart. any suggestions? ]]> tybo480 http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284679 http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284664&goto=newpost Wed, 08 Sep 2010 14:26:53 GMT It seems a lot of guys are taking on their first 1911's lately and I am no different. Thanks to Serpico's thread and all the knowledgeable contributors, a lot of my questions got answered. I don't have alot of time to get on the site so I am going to try and do this in short order, with plenty of photos.


This is the pile of parts I have been accumulating off of GunBroker along with two 50% off Foster Race Ready's I bought a while back. Don't mind the mess.


This is the integral plunger tube Gov model that I cut the radius for the grip safety. You can see the shine on the side, that comes in when I put on the Foster overrun GS that measures more narrow than the frame. I deceided to just make it work. I think after I blend everything it will be ok.


I got the fit nice and tight, just need to finish blending, especially the TS.


The slide was unused but of unknown quality. I like the wide serrations but need to dehorn and fit the extractor.


I hand fit the slide to frame and it is tight and smooth. I am going for a black with SS accent look on this one. Any pics you guys have would be appeciated as I trying to decide on shiny, bead blasted or brushed look for the SS parts. I have a SS slide stop on it now and SS mag release waiting to install.

The rear of the frame needs to be fit along with a once over on the internals. It will take time because right now my kids are keeping me busy.

If I install a Kart easy fit, will that change the position of my slide? How thick will Cerakote be applied? I am wondering how tight I can leave my parts where they will still fit together with minor to no lapping. Does Parkerizing change the dimensions of the parts, wondering for the same reason. It is a work in progress but for a first timer, not to bad all in all. This build has made me apprecite the work of all the smiths out there and the time it takes to get this done right. I just have to ensure safe operation as everyone hear points out and so far, all systems go. I will keep this updated as I go. ]]> luv2ride http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284664 http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284661&goto=newpost Wed, 08 Sep 2010 14:14:20 GMT Hi,

I might be able to fetch a WWII produced ('42) Colt Army stamped 1911 as a project weapon soon.

AFAIK several small parts were already replaced, so I'm not killing a collectible.

I'd be switching everything save for the frame and slide.
Can anyone tell me if those two are worth it, quality wise?
With that I mean the quality of the steel and machining compared to modern manufacturers - Colt in particular, but also the premiums like Les Baer, Caspian and Wilson Combat. I don't care if it's loosely fitted like it will be (that's how a "combat pistol" should be, anyway), just the material quality.

I quite like the idea to have a WWII military 1911 brought back to "modern standards" like the Marines' MEU(SOC), but in a more custom fashion using the parts I prefer.

Thanks in advance!

Vintageologist ]]> Vintageologist http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=284661